Posts tagged knitting
Posts tagged knitting
Finally…. I could post this pattern on Ravelry today!!!
I worked on it for quite a long time and frankly: there is a time when we all need to let go, even of our most beloved children…. ;)
So… here it is, out in the big big world… for everybody to enjoy!
For the first time I actually made a whole jumper out of one colour only!!! It was quite a commitment I had to remind myself that I needed to keep it… I just love playing with colour while knitting - but I am mostly a “one coloured” girl when I choose something to wear.
I tried to make things interesting with texture though: cables on the upper arms and on the sides, reverse stockinette in geometrical form and lots of double moss (almost too much for my easily-bored-self):
Therefore Be Warned Beforehand…
….this much of double moss needs a lot of commitment to get through, but if I made it you can do it, too - and boy is it rewarding… This simple knit+purl stitch is very very easy but with such a great impact!
I learned quite a lot with this pattern: the construction and the implementation of stitch patterns in different sizes would be the obvious thing of the design itself.
But also the collaboration with lovely testers who help you out in the most friendly way and are there for you… out of pure kindness, as also a quite bad experience with a tech-editor, were things I found out (the good and the hard way) by trying to make a pattern out of this project…
There is so much more to designing than “just” writing up how you did something!
You can find the pattern (and all the lovely projects that have already been made) on Ravelry here
or you can buy the pattern PDF file directly and without leaving this page for 4.80 Euros via paypal, by pressing this button
I have done this pattern twice already: it’s the Hermione’s Everyday sock pattern by Erica Lueder!
And both pairs of socks I have done are my absolute favorite… don’t ask me why. I don’t know for sure… but I guess it is the very simple knit&purl pattern that has such a beautiful impact, never bores you and that hugs the feet perfectly.
I have taken the liberty to make made some modifications on this second pair (the first pair is this one), since I prefer the toe-up method for socks…
I thought that you might be interested in how exactly they were done and this is why I want to share this with you: step by step!
I used 2mm DPN’s and Sock-yarn from Lana Grossa (the toe, heel & cuff in a uni colour and rest of the sock in variegated yarn)
CO 15x2 sts with Judy’s Magic Cast On in contrast colour and
inc immediately on the first row (it will be very fiddly to do this):
rnd1: (k1, kfb, knit to last sts on second needle, kfb) repeat
rnd2: knit one row
repeat these two rounds till you get to 62sts for toe
Then make one more increase round, but only increase 1 sts on each side to get to 64 sts.
change to main colour, knit one round
and start the hermione stitch pattern:
on the instep only (you will knit in Stocking sts on the insole till heel)
rnd 1: k3, p1
rnd 2: knit
rnd 3: k1, p1, k2
rnd 4: knit
(Repeat all 4 rows)
Work until sock is 3.5 inches less than the length of your foot from toe to heel (in my case - for a 38 European shoe size - it was
14 pattern repeats / 5,5 inches).
Continuing the pattern on needle 1 (instep), work gusset increases on needle two (insole) only.
Rnd 1: k1, place marker, m1, k30, m1, pm, k1
Rnd 2: knit
Rnd 3: k1, m1, slip marker, k32, slm, m1, k1
Rnd 4: knit
Rnd 5: k1, m1, knit to marker, slm, k32, slm, knit to last stitch, m1, k1
Rnd 6, knit
Work rounds 5 and 6 a total of 10 times, ending in a knit row.
You should now have 12 gusset stitches on either side of your markers, and the 32 insole stitches between the markers.
Knit in pattern across the instep (needle one). You will now be working back & forth on the insole needle only with the contrast colour:( I am using german shortrows in this section, but you can use any short-row method you prefer)
with Main colour
Row 1: k12, slm, k32, turn
with Contrast colour
Row 2: make double sts following german short row method, p31, turn
Row 3: double sts, k30, turn
Row 4: ds, p29, turn
Row 5: ds, k28, turn
Row 6: ds, p27, turn
Row 7: ds, k26, turn
Row 8: ds, p25, turn
Row 9: ds, k24, turn
Row 10: ds, p23, turn
Row 11: ds, k22, turn
Row 12: ds, p21, turn
Row 13: ds, k20, turn
Row 14: ds, p19, turn
Row 15: ds, k18, turn
Row 16: ds, p17, turn
Row 17: ds, k16, DO NOT TURN.
You will now knit in the 8 abandoned short row stitches that are on your left needle by knitting both loops of the double st as one.
You will now pick up the first gusset stitch as such: rm, sl1 to right needle, pm back on left needle, pass next to last stitch on right needle over the slipped stitch, turn.
Row 18: sl1, p23, purl double sts, rm, sl1 to right needle, pm back on left needle, pass next to last stitch on right needle over the slipped stitch, turn.
Row 19: sl1, k31, rm, sl1 to right needle, pm back on left needle, pass next to last stitch on right needle over the slipped stitch, turn.
Row 20: sl1, p31, rm, sl1 to right needle, pm back on left needle, pass next to last stitch on right needle over the slipped stitch, turn.
Repeat rows 19 and 20 ten more times, until all the gusset stitches have been knit in, ending in a purl row, turn.
With the main colour start the hermione pattern again on needle two (which is now the back of the leg). Start with a knit row to avoid purl bumps in the contrast colour and continue in pattern, working on both needles the pattern for 4,5 inches (or 16 pattern repeats).
Cuff in contrast colour:
1 round knit
k2, p2 ribbing for 20 rounds
(the leg will be 6 inches in total with cuff)
Hope you’ll try your own pair of Hermione’s Everyday Socks, too!
Who would not like a shawl in spring…. especially if it is one that is modern and light and colourful and fun and soft and one that has STRIPES?
She asked me to test knit her little gem some time ago and I was delighted - especially after seeing all those lovely details: the play with two different colours, the slipped stitch design, the short-row shaping that gives freedom not only to the construction of the shawl itself, but also to the coloured sections that become much more organic and less geometrical in their form.
This shawl will be my constant companion this spring. I am especially happy that it is something I would wear a lot, since I am not really the lacy shawl type!
The style of “les Sillons” is very modern and fresh, a piece that I can see myself putting on at all hours and that will have a huge impact since it’s colour combination is so much fun!
I used a little bit less than two balls of yarn, one of Lana Grossa Lace Merino and of Lace Merino Print respectively. The result is an incredibly soft and light shawl: less than 100gr!!! But it is still going to keep me warm, since it is 100% merino wool!
And I totally like the effect of the variegated Merino Print in combination with the solid colour of the Lace Merino!
The colours where bought on a whim (I rarely buy chartreuse for example) but I am extremely pleased with the outcome! This is proof that I need to me more adventurous in my colour choices…. risks usually pay off apparently!
My new pattern has just come out!!!!
It is a pure colour explosion (at least for what I am used till now) and all of the most saturated, bright reds and pinks and oranges of my whole stash are combined in this jumper!!!!
Of course it is striped (I would not have been able to do anything else) but the stripe order is done with a twist… to add some interest and make the whole change of colours more visible.
And the feature I like the most are the pockets of course! I mean POCKETS!!!! How often is it the case that someone needs a pocket and there is nothing there. I hate this… I’ve even knitted some oversized pockets to my old huge, battered, strictly stay-at-home cardigans from Zara! It was one of the first things I did when I learnt how to pick up stitches some years ago. They actually look extremely ridiculous but they are incredibly practical!
Anyway… I digress!
The thing I wanted to say is that pockets are one hell of a feature and very much worth the effort. I made them out of very fine, fingering yarn - so that they stay flat and hidden without adding bulk to the jumper (No one would like a garment with some padding around the belly area… shudder!).
The top part is fitted with raglan sleeves and a wide boatneck (my favorite neckline at the moment… so feminine and cute).
The whole construction of the lower part stands in contrast to the upper part by being quite large, with a pronounced A-shape and a little bit of thought put into the construction, to show off the pockets without really showing them (if you can follow me).
The back on the other hand is made slightly more fitted: it always bothers me when flowy A-line jumpers, that look great from the front, hit somehow awkwardly on my bottom when seen from the back or from the side. I think that waist shaping and the length of the garment among other things are crucial for making this work - even if you can’t really notice these constructional features at first. But that’s what always makes for a good design I guess… elements that refine the shape without being the main feature…
But I talk too much again….
….or you can go over to ravelry if you like. You can see more of it on it’s ravelry page here (and be sure to check out all the other really great versions of this jumper… these are such an inspiration!!! I definitely want to make a couple more in finer yarn for spring and in the lovely colours of some of the ravelry-projects seen on the jumper’s project page…
….just lovely lovely lovely!!!!)
Since winter does give a good battle against spring this year I thought that I might knit up just one last little hat, before the “naked-head” period of 2013 starts:
I just went ahead and copied blatantly the fit and style of my all-time favorite slouchy hat…. bought about 6 years ago and made out of horrible pink acrylic yarn (I will spare you it’s sad sight)!
It decided that this winter would be it’s last of working overtime and I had to respect it’s decision! So we had to find a worthy replacement and my new Cocoon was born!!!
The yarn is the lovely Rowan Cocoon, a merino & mohair blend with a lovely hand and sheen. Ravelry says it is bulky weight but it seems thinner to me… who am I though to argue with Ravelry!
Anyway… since I loved the outcome of this one I thought that I’ll share the pattern for free with you guys! You can make it for the last wintry days of this season or for next winter at the end of 2013…
…or if you are from “down-under” you are extra lucky to have a new companion just in time for fall!!!!!!
You can find the pattern at ravelry here (don’t forget to post your finished project on the pattern page… you’d make me very very happy to see all of your Cocoons!!!)
And by clicking here you can download the pattern PDF directly without going anywhere.
I just finished this cardigan today!
It started as a modified version of my summer jumper recipe but things got out of hand (as usually happens with me when I want to follow a pattern). While knitting it up I was thinking: “ohh… why don’t I make a really boxy body? It always looks good with fitted sleeves!” or “I would like really looong sleeves, something to pull almost over my fingers” or “i-cord castoff… it looks so polished! Why did I stop doing it?”….
And I totally forgot about my initial plan of a spring jumper or cardigan in the same make as my summer jumper…
Well… I can’t say that I am too sad about this outcome! On the contrary… I love my new, old-style, cozy grandpa-ish cardigan with it’s funky sleeves and stripes!!!
I had some Zauberball - Schoppelwolle left from a cardigan I made for my mom this christmas (a tiny amount actually… only 34 gramm) and I bought my favorite sock-yarn from Lana Grossa in a gorgeous medium grey (the Meilenweit in colour 1104) with the thought of combining it with different sock-yarn that was left from other projects. In the end I decided to only use the Zauberball and used everything up. For the sleeves I even needed to weight the 3 gramms that were left, to be able to half it in equal parts for each sleeve and to cut and rewind the two tiny balls of wool to get the same colour-change: I started the sleeves in another black Meilenweit yarn and when I got to the stripes with the grey I just continued the Zauberball at it’s blackest part. It was an experiment but worth it in the end! I think that these are the nicest sleeves I have ever made!!!!
And I had the idea of finishing the button-bands without button holes, washing and blocking the cardi (which grew about at least an inch) and to do the button-holes later on. Like this I was able to choose exactly where I wanted them to be and to know that they would stay there and not get lower after blocking! I made an afterthought button hole… and I even took some pictures (so maybe there will be a small tutorial up here soon!).
And I bought these lovely little buttons that can’t decide if they are yellow or green… I had one left, so I used it as a little asymmetric design element… the one button that does not have to do any work but just makes this cardigan a little different…. the philosophical button, if you like!
For the first time I even thought ahead and sew tiny little buttons from the other side of the normal button. To protect the knitted fabric from getting sloppy after some use of the buttons and to keep them better in place without drooping sadly!
So my buttons are happy… and I am happy!!!!!!
Great campy knitting videoclip!
Happy 2013 Ladies & Gents (if there are any?)! May there be plenty of new, fun knitting projects!!!!
Here is my last knitting love… the “Green or Purple or Both” Jumper I just finished and put up on my ravelry page:
I made it up while knitting, as I usually do (this is one of the things I love about knitting a garment that is knit top-down: You try it on and think… “hey, why not put some narrower stripes around the high waist to accentuate it”? and then when making the sleeves it occurs to you that the same stripes on the same height but in reverse colours would be an even better idea!!!)
Anyway, I used the “classic top-down set-in sleeve sweater formula” that I found in Wendy Bernard’s book custom knits. I really like her method, since it allows you to try it on while you work and you usually end up with perfect set-in sleeves and a very well fitting jumper (or cardigan)!
I thought about writing a pattern for this jumper, but alas! I neither have the patience nor the time to make calculations for different sizes and stuff…
So I thought that I might just write down my notes for my own jumper (this would be for an ample size Small) and if you really want to adjust it to any other size you just make the calculations yourself (and you would have the advantage to actually be able to try it on and see how it goes!).
So here we go:
First of all I need to give you the size of the finished jumper: it measures 43,5cm across the bust, 42cm at the waist, 46cm at the bottom, 33cm across the shoulder, it is 54,5cm long (from shoulder to bottom) and the sleeves are 44cm long. (all measurements are taken with the garment lying flat and unstretched).
I used DK weight cotton (about 400 yards of white and 420 yards of a variegated colour) and a 4mm circular needle for the main parts and a 3mm circular needle for the ribbing of the sleeves.
My gauge was 24sts x 28 rows for 10x10cm with the 4mm needle.
With this specific method you start knitting the back with a provisional cast on till you reach the armholes. Then you make the fronts by picking up the stitches from your provisional cast on. You have to make each front separately till you reach the point where the neckline closes, which is after the armholes in this specific pattern. So you knit first the back to the armholes, then one front to the armholes, then the other front again to the armholes and then you put all together on your circular needle and knit back and forth till you finish the neckline. Only then everything is knitted in the round and you continue till the bottom of your jumper.
So. Let’s start with the details:
For the back I made a provisional Cast On with 68sts in white and worked straight in stockinette stitch to about 5 inches (about 35 rows) while keeping a stripe pattern of 4 rows white and 2 rows in my variegated yarn.
Then I started with the armhole increases (on RS rows only) and increased 1 sts at each side (k2, m1L, knit… till last 2 sts, m1R, k2) till 10 sts were added on each side.
Then after 1 purl row I casted on 3 sts at each side on the next RS row and finished with a WS row. At this point all the stitches are put on waste yarn.
Now we make the first front: Pick up 6 sts at the top right end of your provisional cast on and start with a WS row. Continue in the stripe pattern and knit 3 rows, then increase 1 sts at the neckline every 4th row (knit till last 2 sts, m1R, k2) on RS rows only, till 12 sts have been added. Then increase every 2nd row till 3 more sts have been added. (and don’t forget to increase also for the armhole increases like you did on the back after 5 inches). When you have done to the cast on sts of the armhole and the last WS row as you made for the back, you put the first front on waist yarn and start over with the other front by following the same instructions on the other side of the provisional cast on (keep in mind that the neckline increases will be on the other side this time: k2, m1L knit to end).
When you have done the back and both fronts you put all the stitches from the waist yarn on one long circular needle and you continue to knit back and forth in the stripe pattern. To hide the jump of the colour changes it would be a good idea to make “false seams” on each side under the armholes: just purl one stitch at each centre of your armhole, even if it is not yet the beginning of our row. We still need to finish up the neckline, so you have to follow the next instructions on the beginning and the end of your rows: You continue to increase every 2nd row 2 times (in this case it would be the first row after putting the back and the two fronts together and the next RS row after that). And then you continue to increase 1 sts on the neckline on every row (RS and WS) for 6 more rows (to make m1L and m1R on the purl sides you might want to check out the end of the page).
Now we can close our neckline by casting on 10 sts and closing in the round. To get our yarn to the side of our jumper (so that the stripe changes will be less visible) I just do the following: After casting on the 10 sts I just slip every stitch till I reach the side (the first purl sts under the armhole). I now cut the yarn, put a marker before the purl sts and start knitting from my new beginning of the round.
Now we just continue knitting in our stripe pattern for 12 cm, where we’ll beginn the waist shaping of the jumper: p1,k3, k2tog, knit till last 5 sts before purl sts, ssk, k3, p1, k3, k2tog, knit till last 5 sts before marker, ssk, k3. You repeat this decrease row after 10 more rounds one more time. If you too want to make the narrower stripes at the high waist, you’ll have to change the stripe pattern just after the first decrease row: after knitting the variegated stripe normally for 2 rounds you knit 2 rounds of white instead of 4 rounds and 2 rounds in the variegated yarn till you have three narrow stripes of variegated yarn and two in white, then you continue with the same stripe pattern as before (4 rows white, 2 rows variegated). Look at the pictures, it sounds much more complicated than it is!
After 19 cm from the armhole we start increasing: p1, k3, m1L, knit till last 3 sts before purl sts, m1R, k3, p1, k3, m1L, knit ill last 3 sts before marker, m1R, k3. Repeat this increase round every 10 rounds 3 times more.
After that I just continued to knit in pattern for 5,5 cm more and then started the ribbing, but it would be a good idea for you to try the jumper on to see what length you would like it to have. I did a 4knit 2 purl rib for 10 rounds and bound off loosely (but not too loose!).
Now to the neckline:
I undid the provisional cast on at the back and put all sts on the 4mm long circular needle, then I picked up 3 out of 4 sts on the sides and the 10 cast on sts at the center of the neckline. It would be a good idea to put markers at each “corner” (the two edges on the shoulder and the two edges of the 10 cast on sts at the centre front) because we will decrease there to make the neckline sit flat.
You start knitting at the top left of your jumper (the right shoulder). You knit the first round where you k2tog the two sts at the top left shoulder, then ssk the two sts at the first front-neck corner, k2tog the two on the next front-neck corner and ssk the last 2 sts at the top right shoulder of the back. Then you knit the next round till two sts before the last marker (the one on the top right shoulder), you wrap & turn your work and start your short rows by purling back till 2 sts before the marker of the other shoulder. Wrap & turn your work and knit back (while decreasing again at the front neck). This time you warp & turn your work when you reach 4 sts before your wrapped sts (7 sts before the marker) and you wrap & turn again and purl back till 4 sts before the other wrapped sts. Now you make the last wrap & turn and you knit (while again decreasing at front neck) till the starting marker of the round. After knitting one round and hiding any remaining wraps you cast off with an i-cord bind off.
Short-row set-in sleeves:
To make this kind of sleeves you’ll need your circular needle and 6 markers in 3 colours. First you look at your armhole: put a marker on the top of the shoulder (where the provisional cast on was) and one of the same colour on the bottom of the armhole (where your purl stitch is) and then you put a marker of another colour at the point where you started the underarm increases. You do the same on the other other side in a marker of the same colour (these would be our markers A). Now you have to start picking up stitches in the variegated yarn all around the armhole. I use the 3mm needle just for picking up sts since it makes them smaller and more invisible. Start at the bottom armhole marker and pick up 15 sts till you get to the first marker A (the first sts is in the purl row and the next 3 sts are picked up from the cast on sts, you then pick up one sts out of two rows till you make all 15 sts to the marker A). Then you continue in the same fashion till the top marker and you pick up 16 more stitches. You now repeat the same process on the other side: 16 sts between top marker and marker A and 15 sts between marker A and bottom sts. Now you have 2 more markers of another colour to put in: you count 5 sts from the left and the right of your top marker and you position your markers at these points (these would be markers B). You have all in all 62 sts on your sleeve.
Now you change your needle to a 4mm circular and with magic loop you start knitting from the bottom marker up around the armhole, slipping one marker A, one marker B, the top marker and when you arrive at your second marker B you slip this one too and you wrap the next sts. Turn the work and purl back to the other marker B. Slip this marker too and wrap the next sts and turn. You now knit back again to the other side till 1 stitch beyond the previous wrap sts. You wrap this one too and turn your work again. Continue working short rows and taking 1 more stitch form each side before making your turn till you reach your markers A on both sides (dont forget to hide each wrapped stitch as you come to it). You are knitting your sleeve-cap with short rows in this way and when you get to your markers A you have completed your sleeve-cap and you can continue knitting in the round to make the whole sleeve. For this you work the final right side row across the remaining underarm stitches and you continue working the sleeve normally in the round (you can take all markers out except the one that marks the beginning of your row, the bottom marker).
After completing the sleeve-cap knit 3 rounds and then begin with sleeve shaping: We make the first decrease round here: k1, k2tog, knit till 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1. repeat this decrease round every 6th round 3 times more (you should have 54 sts in the end). If you prefer bigger sleeves you can decrease less times. Just try it out too see what you like!
29 rounds after the last decrease round you can put in the 3 white stripes by changing the colour every 2 rows. Then, 16 rounds after your last colour change you change your needle back to 3mm and you can finish the sleeve with a k2, p2 rib for 30 rounds and bind off. (note that with 54 sts you will have 2knit sts at the beginning and at the end of each round, resulting in 4 knit sts in a row. I don’t have a problem with that, but if you do you should probably decrease 2 sts more before beginning with the ribbing).
Repeat the same steps for the other sleeve and you are done!
To create an M1L purl stitch, you work between the two stitches formed directly below the current row. Do this by first beginning a row and purling one or two stitches. Then spread your knitting apart by pulling slightly so you can see the stitches below. Lift the strand of yarn between those two stitches by inserting the left needle into the stitch from the front of your knitting. Insert the right needle into the back of this newly created loop from left to right and purl the stitch. You have increased the row by one stitch.
To create an M1R purl stitch, purl to the last two stitches in a row. Then spread your knitting apart by pulling slightly so you can see the stitches below. Lift the strand between the stitches by inserting the left needle into the stitch from the back of your knitting. This results in a snug loop. Carefully insert the right needle into this loop and purl it as if it were a stitch.
The first one of the bunny family has arrived!
It’s Mother Bunny of course and she’s waiting impatiently for the rest of the numerous tribe!!!
Yeahhhh…. I finished my atelier cardigan in something more than a week!!!
I knitted it - sew on the pockets (with the crochet slip stitch method… great result by the way: you can check out nireknit’s pics about this method here) - blocked it lightly and wore it immediately on a theater night out! The pockets were still damp, but I could not contain myself!!!
I made the size small but I did some modifications:
The sleeves came out more of a size XS, I made the whole cardigan longer but positioned the back waistband somewhat higher up (I like the empire style), I changed the sleeve-cuffs since I can’t seem to knit anything without stripes and I threw some stripes into the pocket lining, too. I also made a much longer garter stitch edge at the bottom, since I think that a larger hem balances the whole cardigan much better….
Anyway… there is much more information about my mods in detail on my ravelry project page, if you are interested!
As you can probably tell…. I am very pleased with this cardigan! At last a garment one can wear with everything and at all hours, that goes with nearly all of my clothes, is incredibly light (only about 170gr) but still very warm (100% wool does that), the colour is gorgeous (it’s holst garn in the colourways “donkey” and “marlin”)… and well, I am just totally happy!!!
Now I am on to make some “sleeves” to go with it… a kind of long wrist-warmers to wear when it is too chilly for 3/4 length sleeves!!!
(I might post the pattern for the wrist-warmers on my next blog post (if they come out fine)… although… wrist warmers and mittens do not seem too appropriate for spring time…)